Pop-up restaurants are opening up everywhere these days. But John Fraser of What Happens When (25 Cleveland Place) says his concept is a little different from the usual pop-up. "It's a restaurant that's going to die in nine months. It's not a pop-up. We're not using a reclaimed space. It's a space where we can develop creativity and have a good time. It's not a serious restaurant like Dovetail , which is my baby, but which does have its limitations and certain expectations...The hardest part is just making the restaurant work. Conceptually it's going to change every 30 days."
Valentine's Day might be over, but there's still plenty of time to break up with your main squeeze this week. Fork in the Road rounds up the 10 Best Restaurants for a Break-Up. The top five include Caliente Cab Co. (61 Seventh Avenue South), where the crowd will drown out your ex's crying; Char No. 4 (196 Smith Street, Brooklyn), where you can drown your sorrows in the extensive collection of brown liquors; and Vesuvio Restaurant and Pizza (7303 Third Avenue), which is simply drowning in health code violations--always a nice touch when you're saying "sayonara." But it's the No. 1 break-up spot that truly takes the cake. Hint: The name says it all. |
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You're probably all sugared out by now, following the sweets fest that V-Day can be. But for those of us who love dessert all year round, Stephen Collucci of Colicchio and Sons (85 Tenth Avenue) has the right idea--cake for breakfast. Over at Fork in the Road, he shares the recipe for his decadent red velvet cake , which he suggests you bake in a loaf pan, so you can slice it to serve with your morning coffee. "Spread on some lightly sweetened cream cheese," he adds, to make breakfast extra sweet. Note that the red can be as Technicolor as you wish. Use food coloring to make it crimson or keep it in earth tones, which is closer to the recipe's origins.  Yuba (105 East 9th Street), named after the Japanese word for tofu skin, serves the stuff in several dishes, including in sushi rolls, with uni, and grilled with sweet miso and kinome (leaves from the Sichuan pepper tree). These yuba sticks have a nice crunch to them, like an upscale Asian bar snack. Also of note on the menu is the kara-age, or Japanese-style fried chicken bites. Exceptionally juicy leg meat is contained within a crisp batter, with a faint sprinkling of lemon juice providing enough acidity to keep the dish well balanced. Yuba may not be the new Masa, but it's a welcome addition to the hood.
Dean Street Café (755 Dean Street, Brooklyn) is bringing a touch of Manhattan to Prospect Heights. And it isn't just the chef, Nate Smith, who comes to the gastropub from the mother of all Manhattan gastropubs, The Spotted Pig . It's also the out-of-neighborhood crowd and wait times for a table that can exceed an hour. Pretensions aside, the place does turn out a pretty mean burger: It's compact, dressed down, and full of flavor. The patty is a dense puck of almost gamy flavor. The brioche bun, fluffy and not too sweet, has a crisp, shiny dome. It comes with a choice of cheese and/or bacon, a single thin slice of red onion, and a pickle, as well as a heaping pile of thick-cut fries with mayo. A bargain at $12.
Albanese Meats, a/k/a the last butcher in Little Italy, is about to get some carnivorous competition. Oxley's Carvery is moving into 202A Mott Street with 50 years of experience as a "Purveyor of Fine Meats, Beef, Pork, Lamb, Turkey, and Specialty Sausages." It turns out there's an Oxley's in Yorkshire, England, but the roots of this British-accented butcher shop remain a mystery for now. With the sign up and the windows papered over, it looks like opening day approaches. |
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